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Antennas · Draft preview · September 2026

My Elevated Radial System for Home Use, Part 2: Height Guide for a 10–20 Meter Fan Vertical

A practical geometry plan for raising a five-band vertical and its twenty elevated radials—without pretending that a tape measure is an antenna analyzer.

A Tennessee Bluetick Coonhound in a field beneath an elevated radial system, reaching toward the right-side support pole.
Where are those dog bones?

Warning — serious hazard

Warning: This is an extremely dangerous antenna configuration. Elevated radials can carry high RF voltage and create serious snag, strike, and entanglement hazards. Do not attempt this installation unless you understand RF safety, electrical hazards, structural support, and safe site design. Even then, do not proceed unless you can keep every conductor safely out of reach and away from people, animals, vehicles, and power lines.

This is the construction-height companion to Part 1. The goal is a home-station fan vertical for 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10 meters, using four elevated radials per band. That makes twenty radial wires in total: more ambitious than a four-wire portable setup, but still practical enough to plan without needing a civil-engineering permit for the backyard.

Starting dimensions, not final dimensions: The wire lengths and heights below are deliberately conservative starting values. The complete antenna must be measured and tuned after it is installed. Element length, radial height, wire diameter, spacing, feed-point hardware, soil, feed-line routing, and nearby metal all move resonance.

Suggested starting geometry

Technical side elevation showing a 26 foot fiberglass mast, a feed-point and radial hub at about nine feet, near-level radial ends, and a 20 meter driven element rising 16.5 to 17 feet above the hub.
Figure 1. Suggested initial height geometry. The drawing is a planning target; measure the actual installation and tune it in place.

Set the feed point and common radial hub 8 to 10 feet above ground. About 9 feet is a useful middle target. Keep the radial ends nearly level with the hub. A gentle downward slope is acceptable, but after normal sag the ends should ideally stay at least 7 to 8 feet above ground—and safely beyond anyone’s ordinary reach.

An approximately 26-foot fiberglass mast gives the longest, 20-meter driven wire enough room. Starting from a 9-foot hub, a 20-meter element around 16.5 to 17 feet reaches near the mast top. The shorter 17-, 15-, 12-, and 10-meter elements can share the same support as a vertical fan.

Plan the radial fan before cutting wire

Technical top view showing five color-coded, symmetric radial sets for 20, 17, 15, 12, and 10 meters. Each set has four wires attached to one common hub, for twenty total radial wires.
Figure 2. Five labeled four-radial sets, all attached at one common elevated hub. Adjust azimuths for the site, but keep opposite pairs and overall symmetry as close as practical.

Use four radial wires for each of the five bands. Attach every one to the common elevated hub, spread them evenly, and keep matching pairs opposite one another where the site allows. The aim is not a perfect compass rose worthy of a museum; it is similar height, similar sag, similar surroundings, and no one radial routed around a suspiciously large metal object while its partner lives in open air.

BandFour radial starting lengthsDriven-element starting length
20 mAbout 16.8 ft eachAbout 16.5–17 ft
17 mAbout 13.4 ft eachAbout 13–13.5 ft
15 mAbout 11.3 ft eachAbout 11–11.5 ft
12 mAbout 9.8 ft eachAbout 9.5–10 ft
10 mAbout 8.4 ft eachAbout 8–8.5 ft

Cut every wire a little long at first and label it before installation. Radial and driven-element lengths may begin in the same neighborhood, but they are not promised to finish equal. Tune the driven elements one band at a time with actual SWR and impedance measurements; keep the radial fan as symmetrical as possible while doing so.

A sensible construction sequence

  1. Install and guy a stable, nonconductive 26-foot fiberglass mast according to its manufacturer’s instructions.
  2. Mount an insulated feed point and radial hub around 9 feet high.
  3. Install the five driven wires, with the 20-meter element establishing the required mast height.
  4. Cut, label, and attach the five four-radial sets to the same hub.
  5. Support the radial ends so their heights and sag are comparable; use nonconductive supports where practical.
  6. Install a capable common-mode choke at the hub so the coax shield does not audition as an unwanted twenty-first radial.
  7. Measure SWR and feed impedance on every band, then make small, documented changes. If results wander, inspect symmetry, nearby conductors, and feed-line routing before blaming the radio.

Safety is part of the antenna design

Overhead power lines: Do not install the mast, driven wires, radials, or support lines near or under overhead utility lines. Treat every line as energized. If a mast or wire could fall, swing, or be pulled into a power line, choose another location or do not build there.

Why this height range

The useful electrical improvement starts when radial wires move away from the ground; an extreme height is not required. Elevated radial systems are often placed in the 4- to 10-foot range. This guide favors 8 to 10 feet because it provides meaningful separation from the soil while offering a more realistic margin for wires that must remain out of reach. It reduces ground interaction and coupling; it does not make them disappear.

Research on optimized systems supports the value of additional, well-balanced radials, but this design should not be read as a claim that 10–12 radials per band is a universal minimum. Four radials per band is a practical multiband starting configuration. The final result is governed by the installed geometry and the particular yard, which will certainly have opinions.

Currently Still Under Construction as a Multiband System

Multiband tuning is complicated enough before adding a fan of elevated return wires, and leaving this many wires suspended full-time would be both impractical and unsafe. This is therefore a multi-month installation and test program, not a weekend project with a cheerful “close enough” at the end.

For testing, each tuned radial set will be installed deliberately, measured in the actual configuration, and removed when it is not in use so the yard does not become a permanent elevated-wire obstacle course. Temporary removal reduces an ongoing exposure, but it does not eliminate the hazards while a set is being installed, energized, lowered, or handled. No testing should take place near people, animals, vehicles, or power lines, and every conductor still has to remain out of reach.

This work is extremely time-intensive: set up, measure, document, compare, remove, repeat, and try not to confuse one labeled wire with another. Results will eventually be posted—perhaps within a year, or ten—once enough real measurements exist to say something useful rather than merely dramatic.

Research basis

This guide draws on Rudy Severns, N6LF, Experimental Determination of Ground System Performance for HF Verticals, Part 3: Comparisons Between Ground Surface and Elevated Radials, QEX, March/April 2009; Severns, Ground Systems for Multiband Verticals, QEX, November/December 2009; and A Closer Look at Vertical Antennas With Elevated Ground Systems, QEX, March/April and May/June 2012. Those studies support elevated, resonant, and symmetrical radial systems while emphasizing that local soil, installation geometry, and nearby conductors determine the final tune and performance.

These citations are representative, not exhaustive. More technical references are available online through paid access and paywalled archives, and the research base is considerably larger than can reasonably fit here. A few additional copies are not listed because only pieces remained after the dog ate them. For the record, the dog is not actually mine.